Crossing Jordan 

From Morocco to Yemen, Middle Eastern cuisines are as varied as their cultures. Although politically, the pan-Arab movement would like to see the region united, the food divulges a varied past and agricultural heritage. In northern Africa, couscous, vegetables, and legumes form the center of the diet. In the eastern Mediterranean region, bulgur, rice, vegetables, and legumes such as chick peas are featured. One of the common characteristics, however, is the absence of animal fat in the form of butter, cream, or lard.The Lebanese have always been known throughout the Middle East for producing extraordinary and exceptional food with Beirut being the culinary epicenter just as Paris is its European culinary equivalent. Would Italians or the Spanish agree with this culinary assessment of Europe? Probably not.

My exposure to Middle Eastern food began while living in Cairo, Egypt, a culture not known for its food, and culminated while traveling in Lebanon with an outstanding dinner at Mounir, a restaurant located in the mountain top Christian community of Beit Meri. All other experiences with Middle Eastern food fall somewhere in between.

Such is the case with Tarboosh, a restaurant on Sharon Amity North near the intersection of Albemarle Road. Tarboosh, named for the Turkish fez, the red brimless felt cap with a silk tassel worn by the Ottomen throughout their 400-year domination of the Middle East, has been enjoying a "soft opening" for the past six months. Co-owner Robbie Kafozi told me, "We plan to have a grand opening soon, maybe in the next few weeks."

Kafozi and his brother Zach own the neighboring Halal Market and the property on which the restaurant is located. Halal opened six years ago across the street from Eastland Mall, but moved to this location a year ago.

The brothers have imported much of the 96-seat restaurant's brilliant display of color and texture directly from their native city of Damascus, Syria. The charming beaded chandeliers were handmade according to their specifications. The hobnailed, comfortable chairs are also from Syria. One decorative mosaic has been in the Kafozi family for over 200 years. Booths line the walls, which also display prayer rugs, and a large expanse of windows overlooks the 35-seat half-covered patio area containing a lengthy water feature. Lebanese and Egyptian singers dominate the sound system.

Traditionally dinners in Middle Eastern countries start at about 10pm and tables are set for minimum of eight, although tables for twenty are common. Some restaurants have playgrounds for the children since dinner can take three or four hours. At Tarboosh, however, most diners arrive in small groups before 7:30pm.

In the kitchen is Chef Abu Bakr from Jordan and the dishes he prepares have a distinctive Jordanian mark. This is not an improvisational kitchen where the menu changes daily. Rather, this menu offers the more common elements of eastern Middle Eastern cuisine. However, you won't find many of the famed vegetable dishes such as hindbeh (chicory) or green beans bi-zeit (in oil), sweet peppers with tomatoes, or butter beans in tomato sauce.

You should order an assortment of appetizers to start since these dishes are meant to be shared. The Baba Ghanoush turned out well with a smoky taste of the charred eggplant. The Hummus was typically Jordanian and thin. Fattoush, a salad, although successfully highlighted by sumac in a breezy summery vinaigrette of lemon and olive oil, was missing the wild mustard green foil to the romaine. The tabbouleh had too many parsley stems to be recommended.

The kitchen was out of lamb one night. The owner noted they had catered an event at the mosque that day. So we contented ourselves with skewers of grilled delightfully tender chicken tawook, beef brochettes, and kafta, a ground lamb mixed with spices. This was served with a saffron rice and thickly sliced fried potatoes accompanied by ketchup, rather than aioli. An odd choice. The table favorite was the warm beef shawarma sandwich, marinated gyro style, which filled a thin, pliant grilled pita. One bite proved that all the components -- beef, parsley, slivers of pickled turnips, tomatoes, onions -- merged harmoniously. Chicken shawarma was equally as good.

You can't wash down these delicacies with Arak, or Lebanese wines, or Egyptian beers, since Tarboosh does not serve any alcohol. Smoking in the main dining room is prohibited, however, a nargilla, the large tobacco water pipe, is offered on the patio for $10. The tobacco is Egyptian. (Note: in Lebanon, women who partake of the nargilla bring their own mouth pieces.)

Unfortunately, desserts falter. Tarboosh purchases baklawa (no "V" in Arabic) from an outside, and I gather not local, source since these nuggets were hideously dried out. The creamy housemade rice pudding was a better choice.

The staff is limited and during dinner one evening, a staffer vacuumed a nearby area while diners ate. Perhaps this is the reason for the lengthy "soft opening." In any case Tarboosh's dishes are adequate and inexpensive, the greeting is warm, and their patio is geared towards languishing meals under a starry sky, which is something to consider during the summer days ahead.

Eaters' Digest Following his doctor's advice, Andrew Goldstein, owner of Good Ol' Days, 3351 Pineville Matthews Road in the Arboretum Shopping Center, has lost about 50 pounds on the Atkins diet. Since finding the diet so successful, the menu at Good Ol' Days has changed to include Atkins diet items. Goldstein has gone the further step of having a nutritionist evaluate all the items on the menu to give his diners pertinent dietary information. "I had a high cholesterol count and was a borderline diabetic," Goldstein says. "The Atkins diet has been great." He also noted that their Atkins Chicken dish is now their best seller. Goldstein had scheduled an appearance by Dr. Atkins at Good Ol' Days in May, but those plans ended with the death of Atkins in New York. For more information about the menu, call: 704-517-9911.

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