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The Pesto Pinch 

Spreading the basil love

Earlier this month, hailstorms pounded northern Italy, and as a result, much of the country's basil crop was obliterated, making it unfit for pesto, the beloved summer herb puree. The area close to Genoa, long considered ground zero for basil, was particularly affected, an act of Mother Nature that inevitably will throw pesto off restaurant menus in that part of Italy.

An Italian summer without pesto is like a day without Chianti. I really didn't understand the concept of pesto alla Genovese until I went to a small town in the Cinque Terre and sat down with a bowl of gnocchi bathing in a puddle of pesto. I remember eating each potato pillow one by one, so I could savor the green sauce and imprint its intense flavor, perfume and emerald-green color on my memory bank.

As multi-layered as it is, pesto is an elementary sauce to prepare, requiring little more than a food processor and about 15 minutes. It's this time of year when backyard gardeners complain of too much basil and not enough mouths to feed. Given Italy's basil-challenged circumstances, I propose making the most of your basil harvest and whizzing up as much pesto as possible in an act of Italio-culinary solidarity. Call it Basil-Aid, Pesto for Peace, Hands Across Gnocchi.

Pureeing huge piles of basil leaves has to bring about good karma. Not only will your kitchen smell lusciously redolent, the neighbors will love the gift, your pasta will soar to a new level, and maybe, just maybe, you'll run into an Italian. Although purist about their pesto (it must come from Liguria to be authentic), Italians live for passion and will appreciate the passion you've inspired by spreading basil love on the other side of the Atlantic.

Basil Pesto

Adapted from James McNair's Favorites by James McNair.

Word of advice: Taste all of your ingredients before making the pesto. If your oil or nuts are rancid, the pesto will taste "off."

2 cups basil leaves (Genovese basil is recommended)

1/4 cup pine nuts

1 tsp. garlic (at least 1 clove, maybe 2)

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

3/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (variation: pecorino Romano)

Coarse salt

Options: Substitute almonds or walnuts for pine nuts. Substitute parsley, mint and/or cilantro for basil

Combine basil, nuts and garlic, and whiz in a food processor. While machine is running, gradually whiz in the oil until everything is well blended.

Transfer to a bowl and add cheese. Taste for salt. Can be used on the spot or refrigerated for a few days, covered. If you're going to freeze, omit cheese and add after the pesto thaws.

Use a few tablespoons for each pound of pasta.

Culinary questions? Contact Kim O'Donnel at kim.odonnel@creativeloafing.com.

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