Staring at a thick, endless restaurant wine list gives me the heebie-jeebies. And since knowledgeable servers are as rare as a 1948 Lafite, we’re pretty much left to run the maze ourselves. But never fear. There are a few savvy secrets to navigating an intimidating wine tome. Beware the “house wine.” Once in a blue moon you’ll encounter an enlightened locale with good house wine, but unfortunately, this is woefully rare. To avoid the trap, get the info. If the house wine equals “Chardonnay,” ask what brand and assess from there.
Buy smart. When the whole table wants wine, consider the value of a bottle instead of several individual glasses. Finding a wine that complements each entree may be daunting, but if you’re drinking what everyone likes, happiness follows.
When you pick up a wine list for the first time, assess its organization. Is it by region? By varietal? By weight? “Weighted” lists are also called “progressive,” meaning the wines are ranked from lightest to heaviest in flavor. Progressive lists are my favorite, if only for their sheer ease of use and helpfulness. Listing only the wine names begs the question: “how the hell do I know what that wine tastes like?” Thankfully, clever restaurants are moving toward more informative wine lists.
Region-based wine lists are a little more difficult to navigate, simply because it requires knowledge of the region. Same for varietal, although people are becoming more informed about different grapes tastes and styles.
Another pointer: don’t shy away from the cheapest wines. There’s a psychology associated with listing the cheaper wines first and going up from there. The restaurateur expects you won’t order the least expensive for fear of looking cheap, and counts on your choice of the third or fourth selection. It’s a game … don’t go there. The wine is normally already marked up 300 percent, so if you like the cheapest wine, then save the bucks.
When flustered, seek help. If your server isn’t up to snuff, then ask the manager or owner for advice. More than likely, these enthusiastic individuals see the value in helping you make a decision. Don’t be shy about asking questions like “I’m having chicken parmigiana, what should I drink with that?” or “My price range is $30 to $40, what can you recommend in the Chardonnay area?” or “I’m not a fan of Cabernet, but I like a big wine, is there something on the wine list like that?”
If the food is light in flavor, then choose a light-bodied wine to go with it, and the opposite for heavier dishes. Keep in mind that sparkling wine goes with practically everything. And if there’s no brand you recognize, just order a grape type that you normally enjoy and embark on an adventure.
To avoid the whole nerve-racking scene altogether, seek out the restaurants that really want to educate and broaden your wine choices. Their servers are trained, and the owners truly love wine. Reward them with your business.
Wine Recommendations
Koala Blue 2001 Shiraz Another affordable, fruity Australian Shiraz has hit our shores. Bursting with cherry and very approachable. Uncomplicated and light. $10 
2002 Gewurz Alexander Valley Vineyards A simply delicious California Gewurztraminer [geh-VERTS-trah-mee-ner], with a flowery nose, and peach and honeysuckle on the tongue. It’s slightly sweet and perfect for spicy food. $10
The Wine List
ARTHUR’S RESTAURANTS AND WINE SHOPS 4400 Sharon Rd. Feb. 18-Wines of Burgundy. Feb. 19-Australian Wines. Both classes are held from 6:30-8pm. Light snacks and bread will be served. $20 per person. 704-366-8610.
BARONE’S WINE ROOM offers wine tastings every Wednesday night from 6-8pm. The cost is $10. Barone’s is located in Birkdale Village, Huntersville. Call 704-987-0011.
CAROLINA WINE CLUB Winter classes will be held at the Mint Museum of Craft and Design from 6:30-8pm. Four Series: Series II: Session II, Feb. 18-Wine and Cheese Pairings for Everyday and Special Occasions; Session III, Feb. 25-Exploring Wines and Ports; and Session IV, March 4-How to Taste Wine. Individual sessions $30; each series of classes $100. Call 704-344-8027 for reservations.
ITALIAN OVEN 300 N. New Hope Rd., Gastonia. This month’s tasting will be held on Feb. 13 at 6:30pm, featuring Australian wines. Hosted by Dave Cozzens of Prestige Wines. The cost is $15. Call for reservations: 704-865-6852.
NECTAR 1730 E. Woodlawn Rd. Wine tastings will be held the last Tuesday of every month from 5:30-7:30pm. There will be six wines tasted, which will follow a monthly theme. $15 per person includes light hors d’oeuvres. 704-519-4174.
SOMETHING CLASSIC AT THE VILLA 715 Providence Road. Wine & food tastings are held from 5:30-8pm on the last Wednesday of the month at Something Classic. For more information, call 704-347-3666.
SOUTHERN SPIRITS announces Winter Wine Classes. Feb. 20: How to Read A Wine Label. $20. All classes are held from 7-8:30pm. Located on Hwy 521, 3 miles south of Ballantyne. Call 803-548-8888 to register.
WINE TASTINGS AT REID’S 7TH ST. WINE SHOP Wednesday Night Flights-5:30-7:30pm, very informal. Three wines will be tasted each week, $10. Four For Friday-Festivities begin at 4pm. Four premium wines are featured in four ways: 2 oz. sample, 5 oz. glass, by the bottle, or in a flight, $20. Call 704-513-7014.
Wine tastings, classes, or other wine-related events will be listed at the discretion of the editors. Send information to Creative Loafing one of three ways: Fax to 704-944-3605; email to lindsey.her man@cln.com; or by regular mail at 6112 Old Pineville Rd. Charlotte, NC 28217.
This article appears in Feb 12-18, 2003.
