Mere Morsels

So the buzz around town is lobster rolls have arrived in Ballantyne. Well, Ballantyne is a lot closer than Wiscasset, ME, where my favorite lobster roll emporium, Red’s Eats, does business. You know Red’s. Many food writers (including me) have written about it. Red’s has been featured on the television morning shows and the food network much to the locals’ chagrin since now traffic practically blocks the bridge behind the stand. Debbie Gagnon mans the window and makes sure that only the best lobster rolls pass through. Her griddled, flat-bottomed hot-dog bun is filled with the velvety sweet flesh of a whole lobster (fresh — never frozen). No mayo, no melted butter. These condiments are served on the side. No celery or spices, either. Only large luxurious lobster claws and tail meat. Rolls at Red’s are not cheap (about $14), but then they are filled with a whole lobster. The same is true for another favorite spot: the Clam Shack in Kennebunkport, ME.

Lately, chefs across the US have taken lobster rolls as their own. They’ve sliced and diced and added celery and scallions until the lobster roll has become the more economical lobster salad roll. But some still serve these rolls at whole lobster prices.

Nothing’s wrong with lobster salad, mind you. But a chicken salad sandwich is not the same as a grilled chicken breast sandwich, is it? What the Village Bistro in Ballantyne serves is a lobster salad roll ($14) with small bits of lobster mixed with mayo and vegetables. Within the menu description of their “lobster roll” it clearly states lobster salad — so they are not trying to fool anyone. I know around the New England suburbs you can find lobster rolls that are, in reality, lobster salad sandwiches, but usually their prices reflect the difference as well.

With that said, the idea of the Village Bistro is “all-American bistro food,” with items from across the US — including Maine. Village Bistro sits at the base of the “red hot center,” aka Ballantyne’s air traffic control tower. The large patio seats 80 while the main dining room seats about 130, including the private dining area and a large bar. Designer Bruce Keith brought rock faced, twin waterfalls to life in the back of the dining room, while large dark-wood booths divide the space and sport dark granite table tops and burgundy upholstery.

Owners Gary Murray, who owned the Press Box on Montford Drive, and Lars Johnson, a former off-shore boat racer and Vermont native, opened this spot last May. Why Ballantyne? Said Johnson, “Ballantyne is the, per capita, second-fastest growing city in the US and the Village Shopping center is something new. The whole center is high tech and interactive.”

Also on board is Eddy O’Connell, the executive chef. Some may remember O’Connell from his days downtown when he owned Fifth Street Café (1889-1999, where Latorre’s is now located).

The menu at Village Bistro suffers a bit of 20/300 vision. (Umm, bistro food or steak house? Or bistro food with prime rib?) If you choose unwisely, your check may send you to the neighboring group of medical buildings. After all, the 22-ounce prime rib is $29 and the seared sea scallops $25. I guess I usually don’t expect to break the bank at a bistro.

But the Village Bistro vibrates with good cheer, and folks sitting outside and in seem to be enjoying their “bistro fare” — Carolina she crab soup and baba ghanoush, hummus and crab green chili cheese dip with tortillas — while sipping on glasses of chardonnay at the silvery patio tables.

We started with the steamed clams (tender) and mussels (tough) in a buttery bell pepper sauce. The crab cakes were better even if the plate suffered from effusive decorating. Certainly some things to come out of the kitchen tasted perfectly OK. The lobster salad roll was served with a pile of hand cut fries. The salad niçoise was decent, yet the new potatoes were undercooked, the ahi was not seared rare as promised and the salad lacked its namesake niçoise olives. Mon dieu!

Desserts were a disappointment. The apple cobbler was undercooked, but O’Connell’s cheesecake, with the hit of orange, stands up better.

The wine list holds about 80 bottles, many offered by the glass. Items from the entrée menu run from $11 for vegetable spaghettini to $29 for Jamaican jerk tiger prawns with rum butter. Village Bistro offers a Sunday a la carte brunch menu that includes a bistro benedict: Dover sole and poached eggs on a biscuit a la California style. The salad and sandwich menu is available until 1am most nights.

The question has been out there for a while: Can serious diners find bliss south of 485? To hear a Myers Parker verbalize the myth, south of 485 is a wasteland of chains and pizza delivery joints. Those who live near town decry the choice to live “out there” in Ballantyne and “clog our roads” while those who live in Ballantyne wonder why anyone would choose to live in “crime ridden,” albeit urbane, Charlotte.

However, any area can eat its way to success. If neighborhoods eat out with great frequency at better restaurants, more “better” restaurants will follow. For now, Ballantyners seem to be enjoying the “lobster rolls” at the Village Bistro.

To contact Tricia regarding tips, compliments or complaints or to send notice of a food or wine event (at least 12 days in advance, please), opening, closing or menu change, fax Eaters’ Digest at 704-944-3605, leave voice mail at 704-522-8334, ext. 136, or e-mail tricia.childress@creativeloafing.com.

This article appears in Jul 25 – Aug 1, 2006.