In case you’ve missed the underwhelming publicity, Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger declared September “California Wine Month.” You might consider it a ploy to redirect the beleaguered state’s economic woes away from the public eye, but this is the fifth year of the event so my cynical side can’t blame it on that. Legit, maybe, but echoes of Austrian-accented “pump you up” ring in my ears.
So I dug into the facts to see if California deserves the fervid enthusiasm. The Golden State has been growing grapes and producing wine for 200 years, and this PR parade honors that long-standing tradition. The industry generates 820,000 jobs across the country, and I imagine Ahhnnold knows his wine industry flows billions into the U.S. economy. A 2006 report from the Wine Institute, an advocacy group for California wineries, declared: “74 percent of California’s wine is sold in the other 49 states, creating revenue and employment for restaurants, retailers, shippers and distributors, among others. Therefore, the national economic impact of California wine is an estimated $125.3 billion, of which $73.4 billion is generated beyond California’s borders.” Wow, that’s a juicy chunk of change. Makes me wonder how much the other drug of choice and its medical marijuana cafes earn for the state. Doubt he’s flouting those numbers with aplomb, although it might be tempting to dangle them in front of ultra-conservatives.
But all this feel-good economic wine news gives us something to celebrate and support, right? I thought, until recently, that plenty o’ props went to my domestic peeps. But a few weeks ago, a vaguely angry e-mail declared my recommendations don’t include enough American wines. Perplexing since, frankly, I think I tout too many domestic offerings: 13 out of the last 50 wines mentioned in Corkscrew were American. Of those, 12 came from California. So I’m all about championing wines from the Golden State. How about you?
Here’s some California wine trivia to throw around at your next shindig:
• California is the fourth largest wine producer in the world, after Italy, France and Spain.
• California has 2,800 wineries, which produce 90 percent of U.S. wine.
• Over 60 percent of the state’s winegrowers participate in the Sustainable Winegrowing Program, which keeps the soil healthy.
• 21 million people visit California wine country every year.
California Wine Recommendations
Page Wine Cellars 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Napa A scrumptious new world-style sauvignon blanc with sweet, creamy vanilla oak on the palate, followed by tart yet well-integrated acids, pear and red apple. Sw=2. $20. **** 1/2.
Steele Cabernet Franc Rosé Lake County Allow this dry rosé to help you over a weekday hump. Steele, a California winery based in warm climate Lake County (northeast of Sonoma), makes this cabernet franc pink that smacks of tart cherry, even acidity and a refreshingly citrusy finish. You’ll want two glasses. Sw=2. $14. ****.
St. Francis 2005 Red Sonoma Mostly a blend of merlot and syrah, and bolder than you might think. Fruity with blackberry and cassis, but also has earthy leather, solid acidity and tannins. Pairs well with any grilled meat. Sw=2. $12. ****.
Blackstone Sonoma Reserve 2005 Rubric From Blackstone’s high-end line of wines, Rubric is a scrumptious red blend of six grapes, predominantly cabernet sauvignon. Has soft, easygoing black cherry and plum with a big dose of oaky vanilla. Mild tannins make it deceptively easy to drink. Sw=1. $20. *** 1/2.
Cambria 2007 Chardonnay Katherine’s Vineyard Santa Maria Made from grapes grown on the estate in Santa Barbara County. Oaky, buttery fans, unite around this little gem. Not so overwhelming with the creaminess but just enough to satisfy that fan club. It’s loaded with lemon, pineapple, honeydew melon and butterscotch. Sw=3. $18. ***.
Sweetness (Sw) rating: 1-10. Star rating: 1-5. Reach Taylor at taylor@tayloreason.com, on Twitter @tayloreason, and on Facebook.
This article appears in Sep 8-15, 2009.
