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Real Retro
Classic mom & pop eateries thrive amid Charlotte's nouveau sophistication
By David A. Moore
Page 4 of 5
Somehow it's not a surprise that there are a number of customers and employees who've stuck around for more than just a few years, too.
Waitresses like Barbara Crump and Felicia Kendrick -- both charmingly vague about their longevity with the business -- dish out familiarities like "honey" and "sweetie" to customers just as quickly as they serve up the restaurant's legendary coconut cream pie. Local celebs like Felix Sabates and Sheriff Jim Pendergrass (who, interestingly enough, has been reported at all the restaurants included in this article) frequent The Cupboard for a menu that includes popular regional edibles like fried chicken livers, grilled country livermush, and fried chuckwagon steak. Open only for lunch, The Cupboard still turns a tidy profit and maintains a more-than-satisfied fan base. "This is food like your grandmother used to make," says Reid. "And it's always fresh!"
The Diamond Restaurant
The Diamond, at 1901 Commonwealth Avenue, is an unassuming little brick building in Charlotte's Elizabeth neighborhood. What's not unassuming is the massive sign in pink cursive neon across the restaurant front. Originally opened in 1945 when ommonwealth Avenue was directly accessible from Independence Boulevard, the sign made it visible from the busy thoroughfare, even though it was the next block over. Current owner Jerry Pistiolis purchased the business from the original owners in 1982 (brothers James, Robert and Ross James, who took over from their parents after World War II).
"I've kept everything pretty much the same," he says matter of factly. "Just added a new food item here and there."
Seems the formula is one that works. The Diamond's devoted followers keep coming back for more of their favorites prepared fresh and hot by cook Parnesh Lowry, a 45-year veteran of the establishment. Among the restaurant's specialty items are baked and fried chicken, a chicken potpie that can't be beat, and corn muffins so good you could make a meal out of them.
Gus' Sir Beef
The restaurant at the corner of Monroe and Wendover has been a fixture in Charlotte dining since 1968. Gus' Sir Beef has always stood out on the landscape, probably as much because of its curious name as its outstanding food.
Original owner Gus Bacogeorge opened several other restaurants with various family members around the Charlotte area over the years -- two of which continue today: the 4101 Monroe Road location and another that opened downtown in 1993 at 324 South Tryon Street. As for the unusual name choice -- son Thrace, who today runs the Monroe Road restaurant with his brother George, explains it this way:
"My father didn't want to call it "Gus' Sirloin Beef' exactly, and he was looking for something that would acknowledge respect -- the word "sir.' So he came up with "Gus' Sir Beef.' Sir is kind of an abbreviation for sirloin, but at the same time it's a word used for respect. That's where the name came from."
Perhaps that explains another unusual but well-known slogan the restaurant uses to describe their vegetables: "fresh my farm." Son George smiles when he talks about the curious phrase, which is actually a registered trademark designed to let the customers know that the Bacogeorge family grows their own greens and squash.
"We cook them [vegetables] so that they're good for you, too," Thrace brags. "No fats, no grease and we use items low in fat."
Besides the good ol' down home Americana, the menu also includes a few unusual items like chicken livers broiled with Greek spices and Italian dishes such as lasagna and manicotti.
Price's Chicken Coop
Price's Chicken Coop, 1614 Camden Road, sure isn't much on the eyes -- but when it comes to fried chicken and seafood, you've hit pay dirt! The small brick building near downtown Charlotte serves only take-out. The lack of fancy digs, however doesn't seem to make much difference to long-time devotees of the legendary eatery. It's a regular thing during lunch for a line of hungry customers to snake its way out the door and onto the sidewalk. Luckily, the service is very quick.
Best bet: try phoning in your order before you go, but be aware there's a cut-off time before the crowds hit. Price's opened in 1962 under the direction of Talmadge Price. The following year, the head cook Edward Garritt came on board, and he's still with the company today. According to Talmadge's son Steve, who continues to run the eatery, the business originally opened to feed the workers of a nearby factory -- one that has long since vanished into the pages of Charlotte history. The restaurant, however, has outlasted many of its neighbors.
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