July 17, 2002 Edibles » Corkscrew

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The Wine In Spain 

More than just "riojas"

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For those raised on California and French vinos, the wines of Spain can seem like a mystery. Sure, we've all seen and heard the word "Rioja," but what exactly is in those dark, expensive bottles? Nowadays, really all you need to know about Spain is a few regions, producers, and grape varietals on Spanish labels and you can dive into a world of inexpensive and yummy wines.RegionsLike France, Spain frequently only lists the region on the label. But aside from knowing the general grape blends and some styles in each region, you're really gonna have to taste-test producers and examine the label for quality indicators (talked about later). There are 50-plus regions in Spain, but here are a few highlights. Wine from Rioja, a region in northern Spain producing juice from red Tempranillo and Garnacha grapes, can be both light-bodied and fruity as well as dark and complex. Penedes, in the Northeastern part of Spain, is famous for its sparkling wines called Cava, made in the same method as French Champagne. Ribera del Duero, near the northern Portuguese border, is praised for its long-lived, tannic Tempranillo wines. Although Spain hasn't ever been known for its white wines, an area called Galicia, specifically an area called Rias Baixas in the northwest corner of Spain, turns out some inexpensive, kick-ass whites called Albarino, similar in style to lighter and fragrant Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.

VarietalsTempranillo, the main grape in Rioja, is probably the most famous and most versatile native grape. It's found in simple reds, as well as those meant to age for decades. Garnacha, a blending grape, gives Rioja more body. White Riojas are made mostly with the Viura grape (alias Macabeo), and are refreshingly acidic and low in alcohol. Monastrell, the Spanish version of France's Mourvedre, is popping up more often on labels, and is light and fruity for everyday drinking (and usually a great deal). Small amounts of familiar grapes Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec and Pinot Noir are also planted, but you don't see them very often on Spanish labels.

ClassificationLike France, Spain is divided into districts (a.k.a. appellations), classified by the Denominacion de Origen (D.O.) system of quality. The system, which also applies to products like olive oil and cheese, refers to where the government has set boundaries and requirements for wines made in a specific area, such as Rioja. It's like a good-better-best scale: Vino de Mesa or VdM(a.k.a. Table Wine); Denominacion de Origen or D.O.; and Denominacion de Origen Calificada or D.O.C. (mostly reserved for Rioja). Look for D.O. & D.O.C. on the label.

In addition to the district classification, on each Spanish label you'll see designations like Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. These refer to the amount of time the wines are aged, starting with Crianza, which means two years of aging, and ending with Gran Reservas that have a minimum of four years of age (at least two in oak).

Now that you know the basics, let's get to drinkin'.

Recommended Wines

Faustino de Crianza 1997, D.O.C. Rioja A New World-style red made from Tempranillo grapes. Spicy, with a smooth balance of oak and fruit. **** $13

Vionta Albarino 2000, D.O. Rias Baixas An aromatic white with great aroma and nice acid. This would be great with oysters! *** 1/2 $17

Aria Brut, Segura Viudas, Cava A tad on the sweet side, this cava sparkler is smooth and tasty. Great for the price. *** $10--Tina Caputo

Condado de Haza 1999 Ribera del Duero Earthy, big, fat red wine. The oak shines through like a beacon, but works well with fattier foods like red meat and cheeses. *** 1/2 $18 --Taylor Eason

Comments? Questions? Great wine experience to share? Talk to us! We'll feature your comments in our Mailbag. E-mail corkscrew@creativeloafing.com or snail mail to Corkscrew, 1310 E. Ninth Avenue, Tampa, FL 33605.

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