Zen is a name currently in vogue for trendy Asian restaurants. My favorite is New Zen — as if Zen itself could be improved upon. Seeing into one’s own nature and understanding that nature is the whole of Zen. This process, while simple enough, may take a lifetime to achieve. So naming a restaurant Zen may, on the surface, just denote an Asian influence; coming to understand that restaurant will take a bit longer.
That’s the case with Zen Asian Fusion, which opened in Dilworth in October in a space fomerly occupied by a fast-food offspring. Zen’s owners, Phong Luong and brother-in-law Chi Zhang (a native of Canton, China), worked together to achieve the restaurant’s stunning design. As Zhang noted, “Phong was the mind and I was the hand.”
The ceiling is uplighted with soft red emanating from behind the floating soffits, while a large, inviting, backlit bar fronts one wall. Seating is provided at each turn. I sat at a table for two in a pathway. This section had comfortable booths with high, curved backs for privacy. You will quickly feel territorial and in no hurry to leave.
Owner Luong has been on the Charlotte culinary circuit for two decades. With his brother Tri Luong, he owns Miró Spanish Grille and Solé Spanish Grille. Although the Luongs are native Vietnamese, they have been associated with Spanish restaurants in Charlotte — one of those quirky aspects of Charlotte dining and hence the “tapas/appetizers” section on Zen’s menu. In the 1980s, the Luong brothers worked at Tio Montero, then opened Olé Olé. Tri Luong is the menu consultant at Zen. Zhang, on the other hand, has worked exclusively in area Asian restaurants for the past 18 years.
Zen’s menu is a mix of Asian cuisines. Not that the dishes themselves are mixed or fused, but the dishes come from a variety of places. Dinner dishes include Saigon Rice, Thai Curry, Korean Steak, Mongolian Crispy Fried Noodle, Hong Kong Sea Bass, Singapore Noodle, (Japanese) Teriyaki, Mandarin Kung Pao — even Hawaii has a Sweet and Sour shrimp dish. That’s a lot of globetrotting for one restaurant to achieve. To accomplish this, Luong and Zhang brought Thai, Chinese and Japanese chefs onboard to man the kitchen.
Zhang describes Zen’s cuisine as “more contemporary.” He said the fusion comes by blending Asian with European. “The flavor is very different. It’s not, for example, the conventional brown sauce that is served in most Chinese restaurants.”
This is true. But sadly, the end result is disappointing. While exquisitely plated and presented, the dishes lacked oomph. The classic Asian palate balances hot, sour, sweet and salty, which is often a nightmare for those choosing wines for the table. At Zen, though, those classic Asian flavors have been modified, mitigated to an extreme. Eating Zen’s lettuce wraps was like eating Thai food with a condom. No pungency, no heat, no garlic. Where is the crispy, cold iceberg lettuce? Instead, the dish arrived with soft and buttery Bibb. The Japanese influence was represented by the Ahi Tuna Tataki, sliced thin but not paper thin and splashed with a mildly citrusy ponzu sauce. The thinner crispy spring rolls, thankfully, were served with a spry fish sauce.
Richly dense Tom Kha is typically one of my winter favorites, but Zen’s soup was heavy on the coconut milk, light on the herbs. Better were the entrées. A seductively embracing duck is always welcome, and here was no exception. The sautéed sliced duck swam high above the baby bok choi in a smooth five-spice sauce. The duck entrée was handily the winner over the lethargic Singapore Noodle dish, the latter not quite distinguished by the multitude of chicken slices and sautéed shrimp.
I understand that mellow dishes are the intent at Zen. I get it, but I don’t. It’s the old “give the people what they want” versus “give the people what they should want.”
A few words about the desserts: Not all are made in-house, but they are sure to please nevertheless.
Zen’s dishes do work well with the wine list of more than 70 bottles. The beer roster contains Asian, European and domestic brands.
Frequently, I am asked what happens when a restaurant critic is spotted by the management. It happens. For years, my picture ran in the Loaf. Any restaurant owner worth her salt has taken time to find a picture of the various food writers and critics in town. And those critics who don’t think their picture is posted in many of Charlotte’s kitchens are fooling themselves — especially in these days of cell phone cameras. Recognition usually only happens about once a year, as it did at Zen. What occurs after “the spotting” is usually humorous. The management cannot change the menu, chef, seating or the overall ambiance. All that’s left is to change the server. So sure enough, gone was our original young, hesitant server, and soon Nicole appeared at the table. Nicole, it’s worth noting, is one of the best servers I’ve encountered in Charlotte.
The ambiance of Zen is inviting, the service superb, and, if you like your Asian food more on the mellow side, locally-owned Zen should make the top of your list.
Have a restaurant tip, compliment, complaint? Do you know of a restaurant that has opened, closed or should be reviewed? Does your restaurant or shop have news, menu changes, new additions to staff or building, upcoming cuisine or wine events? Note: We need notice of events at least 12 days in advance. Fax information to Eaters’ Digest: 704-944-3605, or leave voice mail: 704-522-8334, ext. 136. To contact Tricia via email: tricia.childress@creativeloafing.com
This article appears in Dec 7-13, 2005.
