Columnist Tony Cecchini has a secret love, and it's green.
Vinho Verde (pronounced veen-yo vaird) is the name of a large region of northern Portugal, and by extension its wines. Though over half of those are brutally harsh reds that rarely see these shores, what we mean when we talk about traditional vinho verde here is a shockingly idiosyncratic white wine: bone-dry, extremely low in alcohol, lemony-tart, limpid almost to the point of being watery and with a very slight fizz. The wines can be melon-soft or have grapefruit-peel zest, but they are all easy-access, up-front quaffers, perfect for the beach and its accompanying seafood. Its called "green wine not for its cast, but perhaps because, more than almost any other wine, it is made to be drunk as young as possible (and also because the region is the greenest in Portugal).
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