There's nothing like walking into a cool, dimly lit bar on a bright summer morning and fondling some melons. That's no euphemism. Saturday mornings, The Evening Muse and its diurnal incarnation The Daily Press are now hosting NoDa's own farmers market.
At the Matthews Community Farmers Market, a woman stands at the Walnut Ridge Farm booth, holding what looks like a light green flying saucer the size of a lunch plate. Even after proprietor Daryl Simpson names the squash's variety - Early White Bush - and describes its taste, she has one remaining question. "So...how would you cook this?"
Straight-neck, crook-neck, patty pan, zephyr... squash has been growing in this soil since before the Europeans' arrival, yet it remains a conundrum for many of us. The variety is stunning and picturesque - long, round, yellow, green, purple - but it can also be intimidating.
At Newtown Farms in Waxhaw, Sammy Koenigsberg is growing seven different varieties, all of them falling under the label of "summer squash." Regardless of color or shape, these types possess thin skin and a relatively short shelf life, and fall into three general categories: familiar yellow squash, green zeppelin-shaped zucchini and the flying-saucer patty pan type. While they all display "subtle variations in flavor, shape and color," Koenigsberg says they are interchangeable in cooking. "For example they could all be used in a squash casserole, sautéed with onion, [or] brushed with olive oil and grilled."
So, why bother with more than one variety? According to chef Chris Coleman, who currently plays with five different kinds in the kitchen at The Asbury, "They all bring different things to the table."
The origins of chicken tikka masala are controversial, to say the least. Whole countries lay claim to the dish and long-standing lore has perpetuated a muddy genesis at best. The short story is this: A man walked into a restaurant called the Shish Malal in the 1970s and ordered the chicken tikka, which he claimed to be dry. An irked Bangladeshi chef, in order to satisfy the quintessentially British hankering for gravy on everything, dumped a can of tomatoes, spices and yogurt on top, and voila! Chicken tikka masala as we know it was born. Again, this is hearsay. There are entire books dedicated to the origins of this crimson concoction.
Chicken tikka masala has more iterations than pimento cheese and evokes the same patriotic fervor. In town, Copper Indian Cuisine on East Boulevard makes a velvety smooth version that your mouth will want to claim for itself.
You’re gonna hate this week and you already know it. It’s the wages of three-day holiday weekends. Let’s just skip the bullshit and aim for Friday. Cool? Cool. #weekendwarriors
• Each month, Heist Brewery spotlights a local visual artist in the Library Bar as part of their #LocalArtistSeries. July’s feature is Beards BeCAUSE co-founder Jared Yerg with “Another Follicled Foray.” Check out five new pieces at the exhibit’s opening reception and rub elbows with artsy drinksy types … or chins, if that’s what you’re into. #putyourhairinastickybun July 11, 8 p.m. Heist Brewery, 2909 N Davidson St. See more of Jared’s work at his Facebook page.
Food lovers know that we eat with our eyes before the first morsel touches our tongue. So as summer comes a'calling, it's no surprise to see flowers popping up on plates all over town. Squash blossoms may be headliners (read this post) but from bachelor's buttons to zinnias, Charlotte's chefs are playing with all types of colorful blooms.
Kim Shaw
Asparagus with chive and sage flowers
Flowers are pretty, but you might wonder whether they bring real flavor to your food. A recent Facebook conversation initiated by chef Joseph Bonaparte (former culinary director at the Art Institute of Charlotte, currently at Horry-Georgetown Technical College in Myrtle Beach) raised just that question. "[Is] putting little flowers on your plates the new micro greens?" he wondered.
This week, we look into the rise (or lack thereof) of creative craft beverages sans alcohol. Mocktails. We asked Kevin Gavagan, owner of the pop-up cocktail concept Haunt Bar, to fill us in on what he uses for tasty non-alcoholic beverages and he talked of shrubs. No, not bushy plant life, but vinegar-based infusions made typically with fresh fruit and herbs.
Gavagan likes to make a sophisticated soda with his shrubs and shared his recipe for Haunt Bar's popular grapefruit shrub which he uses in alcoholic beverages such as the Paloma Paradiso and a Grapefruit gin and tonic.
At home, Gavagan says, he likes to add the shrub to club soda or seltzer for a nice homemade soda. Experiment with additions like cinnamon and clove or add different vinegars for a new twist.
Haunt Bar Grapefruit Shrub 1 Cup Sugar 1 Cup Vinegar (Apple Cider is a good choice) 2 Medium Grapefruit (Spice or other Additions)
Peel and rough chop the grapefruit Put vinegar and sugar in a sauce pan, warm and stir until sugar dissolves Add grapefruit and peel (along with any other ingredients) Bring to a boil and turn off and cover Let it steep until cool Bottle and keep for up to six weeks in the fridge.
Grapefruit Summer Spritzer
Fill a glass with ice Start with one part shrub to two parts sparkling water Give it a stir, garnish with a piece of grapefruit peel Sip, and enjoy.
Last week, wallethub.com ranked Charlotte the 7th worst city for Independence Day festivities, out of the largest 100 cities in the U.S. Their methodology was cobbled together from some combo of expected weather, swimming pools per capita and the availability of cheap three-star motels - in other words, lacking relevance. The average price of a Nathan's frank wasn't even on the list! So this week, I'm giving you nothing but the best 4th of July grubbing, from Q to shining C. Even if you don't celebrate manifest destiny and the founding fathers, everybody celebrates potato salad.
* Its reputation for hippest neighborhood may be recent, but Plaza Midwood has been bringing it for Independence Day for over a decade. The annual Plaza Midwood Pig Pickin' is 13 years strong with sales, special menus and live music all day long. Dan the Pig Man and other trucks are packing the pork along with area restaurants - LULU is featuring a $30 3-course fine swining menu, for one. My pick is the fish fry at Snug Harbor, with plates from Gastonia's Twin Tops Fish Camp and music from Hectorina, Temperance League, and AM/FMs. #amberwavesofwhiting Free (bring cash for food) July 4, 4 p.m. - 2 a.m. All over Plaza Midwood
Bacon is king. Whether dipped in chocolate, layered with lettuce and tomato, or crumbled over truffle-infused deviled eggs, it seems Americans have forgiven bacon its unhealthy reputation. After all, we're talking about a mouth-watering combination of fat, salt and crunch.
As North Carolina is one of the biggest pork producers in the nation, "we have plenty of belly to go around," says The Asbury's Chris Coleman, who's serving as the event's committee chairman.
Each week, The Social Eater picks a handful of filter-friendly, tweetable, social media-shareable foodie events in and around the city. No #struggleplates allowed.
* That haunting wail you heard Sunday night was probably your timeline imploding over the news that Starbucks is raising its prices. No matter, it's time to try something different anyway, by way of Queen City TNT, a traveling monthly-ish latte-art competition. Bring your pitcher if you think you're the Bob Ross of baristas, or just spectate in wonderment over what can be done with a little spilled milk. #frenchpressionism Today, 7 p.m. $5 to enter, free to watch Atherton Market, 2140 South Blvd. More info here. Plus, check out this cool video of a previous Queen City TNT.
"Oh wow, we got super lucky!" Our little group is no more than 50 feet from the residential street when Clark Barlowe darts off the dirt path, reaching for an overhanging branch. "I never thought we'd see these today. Mulberries."
Close on his heels, students and chef instructor Terra Ciotta from the Art Institute of Charlotte cluster under the tree to see, taste and pluck the small red berries as Barlowe explains that the pink unripe ones can also be pickled. This is just the beginning of an afternoon stroll with the chef/owner of Heirloom restaurant, who also happens to be a lifelong forager.