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- Qing Lin (chef & owner), left, and Tracy Yang (owner) showing their new dish, Ho Ho Duck
"But we have changed it considerably," responded Tracy Yang, one of the owners. "We changed the wallpaper and the decorations."
But the room seems curiously at odds with its objective. The muted floral wallpaper dotted with framed jigsaw puzzles depicting New England scenes is, for sure, unlike your typical Chinese restaurant.
The good news is that the food is also unlike many Chinese restaurants. The dishes at Ho Ho are tastefully presented and delightfully inspired.
Ho Ho China Bistro, which opened in July 2003, is owned by two couples: Yang, her sister Carol Yang, Carol's husband Jason Chen, and Tracy Yang's husband Qing Lin. Lin, who is the chef, trained in a culinary school in his native province of Fu Jian on the southeast coast of China, a strait away from the island of Taiwan. Lin specializes in Hunan and Szechwan cuisine. After coming to Charlotte, Lin became chef at Baoding in Sharon Corners Shopping Center. While there, he met Tracy Yang, who had been a server there since 1998. Also working at Baoding were Carol Yang and her future husband Chen. The Yang sisters are from Hu-Peh, a province of 34 million in central China on the Yangtze River. The Yang sisters and Chen run the front of the house.
The menu at Ho Ho is a mix. Tracy Yang said, "We do not just serve ordinary Chinese food. Our food is really different." And that difference is what makes Ho Ho a great small restaurant.
On one side of the menu are the Americanized Chinese dishes that remain ever popular: Moo Shu, Sa Cha, and the perennial chicken with broccoli. But if you don't order from the Ho Ho Specialty menu, you're missing out on the best of what they have to offer.
The steamed dumpling appetizer and the stuffed lettuce with minced chicken, chestnuts and red pepper in a sweetened garlic sauce both encourage plate sharing. But move on fast to Lin's primary event: the entrees.
Chef Lin produces Szechwan and Hunan dishes with a distinctive twist. The Ho Ho Duck is a tender boneless breast marinated with ginger, scallions, five spice powder and then stewed in a flavorful soy sauce. The sliced duck surrounds a center of stir-fried vegetables and mushrooms while the plate is decorated with fruit carved into flowers.
Equally as well crafted is the first-rate Ho Ho Shrimp with tails-on -- large shrimp stir-fried in an appealing blend of a light sweet and sour sauce highlighted by Grand Marnier. A third entree, a fragrantly steaming plate of thin pan-fried noodles with tender chicken strips, is less thrilling but equally harmonious and again reflects Lin's proposition that food should be as clean as it is satisfying. You won't find the standard Americanized Chinese mumbo jumbo on a plate here. Dishes are defined. Tastes are clean and fresh.
As folks came in and out for take-out, we wondered why the dining room isn't packed since the food is so flavorful and the owners are so welcoming. The service is excellent as well. If Ho means good, and Ho Ho means excellent, than this place deserves a big Ho, Ho, Ho.
Eaters' Digest Owners Sally Chen and Tommy Yang opened the 74-seat Osaka Restaurant, 17115 Kenton Drive, in Cornelius last December. This is their second location. The first opened in Charleston five years ago. The menu offers both Chinese and Japanese dishes. 704-987-8980.
The 2004 Charlotte Wine & Food Weekend , April 22 through April 24, still has a few events open: the Bistro 100 dinner with Hartford Family Wines ($100), the Super Tuscan Tasting ($350), Chateau Cherval Blanc International tasting ($400), and the Vintner Tasting ($25). Tickets are per person. For the latest update on what is available, go to www.charlottewineandfood.com or call 704-338-9463.
Ballantyne Resort, 10000 Ballantyne Commons Parkway, 704-248-4000, offers two new buffets: Sunday from 10:30am until 2pm, with omelet station, seafood, entrees, salads, and desserts for $23.95 per person and Friday seafood buffet from 5:30pm until 9pm for $21.95 per person.
Have a restaurant tip, compliment, complaint? Do you know of a restaurant that has opened, closed, or should be reviewed? Does your restaurant or shop have news, menu changes, new additions to staff or building, upcoming cuisine or wine events? Fax information to Eaters' Digest: 704-944-3605, or leave voice mail: 704-522-8334, ext. 136. Note: We need events at least 12 days in advance. To contact Tricia via email: tricia.childress@creativeloafing.com
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